Botswana 

Zambia 

Zimbabwe

and the 

Zambezi River Valley

by

Cape to Cairo

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Introduction to Botswana, the Zambezi valley and Zambia 

Rains originating in the Angola Highlands and flowing southeast into Southern Africa as the Okavango, Kwando, and Zambezi Rivers form one of the world's most fascinating ecologies.  This area  encompasses many of the great wildlife parks and regions of the world, including the Okavango/Moremi area, Savute, Linyanti and Chobe, the upper and lower Zambezi National Parks, Matusadona, Mana Pools, Kafue, and North and South Luangwa Parks.

We at Cape to Cairo began our  fascination with this region 20 years ago on an overland camping safari using a Land-Rover to travel through Magkgadikgadi Pans, Nxai Pan, Moremi, Savuti, and Chobe up to Victoria Falls.  The little visited Nxai Pan National Park remains one of our favorites to this day.  It was reached, in those days, by the old Nata to Maun road, which was still a dirt road, often flooded as it crossed through Suwa Pan. Just south of Nxai Pan, on the opposite side of the Maun road lies the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, whose rolling grasslands are today one of the last remaining venues for the zebra and wildebeest migrations throughout Africa, taking place at the first hints of new rain and fresh grass in the semi-desert areas.
 



Zebra Migration in the Kalahari - Jacks Camp


Maun itself was a traditional African village with goats, mud huts, and the refugees of the British Empire, whose livers were as unreliable as the Landrover’s they drove. In those days, when back from conducting safaris into the remote parts of the Okavango, guides and hunters sought cures for the former malady at the bar of Riley’s hotel, and while awaiting repairs to the latter at Riley’s garage, not much more than a tin shed with an Indian mechanic regarded as a font of wisdom and possessed of magical powers by native and expat alike.  The unreliability of vehicles in those days was well portrayed in Jamie Uys’s popular movie “the God’s Must be Crazy,” which,  should be regarded - at least on this account - as historical documentary, and not the slapstick comedy it appears to the uninitiated.

One of the watering holes en route was, and remains the well-known Gweta rest camp.  In days gone by it was run by Keith and Margie Poppleton.  We remember being regalled around the camp fire by Keith's tales of adventure in the bush, and recordings at Savute of hyena chasing lion off of kills, a phenomena now well documented, but much doubted in those days when fiction loomed larger than fact in African wildlife stories. and were saddened to learn more recently of a terrible accident when Keith was fatally injured by a wild-gunshot fired by a panicking ranch hand while Keith was leading a hunt for a lion that was maurauding the local cattle.  The panic occurred when the lion they were tracking  rounded them and turned up in the middle of the line. 

While one mourns the passage of  a certain romance that has disappeared with paved roads and competition from the far more reliable Toyota's, one must congratulate Botswana on what it has achieved in the past two decades as one of the real success stories of Sub Saharan Africa.  Wealth generated by the discovery of diamonds at Jaweng and Orapa have been wisely invested in providing broad oversees educational opportunities for the citizens of Botswana.  Twenty years ago a border guard found a New York City subway token during a baggage inspection and laughed with incredulity at our description of its use and intent.  Today the son’s and daughters of those customs officials now call us for flights on 747’s to return home from their studies at universities across the United States.

While modernizing, the other result of the success of Botswana has been its unsurpassed commitment to wildlife conservation with large parks and private concessions containing a fabulous quantity and diversity of wildlife.  Transportation and accommodations are as good as they need to be while not compromising the unspoiled nature of the experience in Botswana.  With a low population density and a deliberate policy of high-quality low-impact tourism, the wildlife, birdlife, and natural beauty have to be experienced.  Many citizens take up careers as safari guides in the reserves and concessions.  While tribal pride, traditions, and language remain, these are a subcurrent to a thriving national culture that has emerged in recent decades.

North of Maun is the Okavango/Moremi area, which is the end of the Okavango river as it flows into a myriad of channels in the desert and evaporates.  Further north still is the Kwando River, which flows into Linyanti marsh, reemerges as the Linyanti River and flows into the Chobe river which joins the Zambezi at the meeting point of Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Botswana.

Zambezi Basin- Five Rivers Safari Special - $200 per person per night

Five companies in western Zambia, Namibia’s Caprivi Strip and northern Botswana have joined in cooperation as the very first step towards the formation of a Transfrontier Park envisaged within the Zambezi Basin area. The participating camps and lodges are:

  • Victoria Falls – Livingstone: Songwe Village
  • Chobe Area : Impalila Island Lodge
  • Caprivi Region: Susuwe Island Lodge
  • Caprivi Region: Lianshulu Lodge 
  • Kwando/ Linyanti region: Kwando Lagoon Camp and  Kwando Lebala Camp 
  • Okavango Delta: Kwara Camp
  • Moremi Game Reserve: Xakanaxa Camp

  • Central Kalahari Game Reserve: Deception Valley Lodge.

Safari Itineraries and Choices
 

How to get here and there

The region is reached by daily flights into Johannesburg

  • Daily flights then connect Johannesburg and Maun, Livingstone, Lusaka, and Victoria Falls.
  • Newly introduced flights between Livingtsone and Kilimanjaro, enable easy connections between Southern Africa and Tanzania
  • Easy connections to Windhoek from Maun if you wish to add a safari in Namibia
There are really a few big choices that one needs to make about safaris:

1.  Do you want to do a fly-in safari staying in luxury tented camps and lodges?

  • Allow from $200 per person per night in Green Season up to $500 per person per night in high season (and $900 for 6* camps)
  • Provides high intensity experience in trull remote camps on private concessions - you will reach prime wilderness areas quickly, stay in fabulous camps and lodges 
  • Individualized attention
2.  Do you want scheduled overland safaris?
  • Best way to fully experience the scenery and natural beauty
  • Can be least expensive for those on a budget and willing to forego some luxuries
  • Top end can be quite luxurious and have become overland lodge safaris requiring little time camping
  • Public campsites are spacious and uncrowded, but you will have other groups and people.
  • For more comprehensive lists see scheduled safaris
3.  Do you want a private overland safaris? 4.  Do you want walking safaris
  • Experience Africa a la Hemingway (as described in "True at First Light")
  • Good exercise, and you will not feel as though all you have done is eat and sit in a vehicle.
  • Range is limited as is distance you can approach wildlife and the number of animals you will be able to see.
  • A few excellent places and operations, but usually prohibited in public parks.
  • Specialty at South Luangwa and in Zimbabwe parks although there are many opportunities now in Botswana for short day excursions in particular.


5.  Safari in Botswana or Zambia?

  • Botswana has an incredible density and diversity with large parks and wilderness areas and is recommended for those who are experiencing Africa for their first time.
  • Zambia is wilder, less developed, and more typical of traditional Africa.  Kafue is rarely visited though easily accessible from Lusaka.  South Luangwa National Park has top class safari lodges, and specializes in walking safaris, either as day trips, or multi-day safaris camping on the go.
  • Lower Zambezi National Park has fabulous facilities to combine canoeing, fishing and wildlife adventure.
6.  How to spend time at Victoria Falls
  • Hotels in Victoria Falls, i.e. Ilala Lodge or the Victoria Falls Hotel
  • Hotel on Zambian side - 
  • Lodges - Matetsi on the Zimbabwe side or River Club or Tongabezi on the Zambian Side.
  • We can arrange a variety of activities, including Elephant back safaris, microlighting, white-water rafting, and visits to Chobe National Park.
7.  What about Zimbabwe?
  • The wildlife areas of Zimbabwe have remained largely unaffected by the recent political situation.  Victoria Falls is calm, and Hwange, Matusadona, and Mana Pools remain fabulous wildlife areas.  Because of the high quality of wildlife, superbly trained guides, and superb facilities, Zimbabwe is probably the best value for safaris in Africa.
8.  What about birding
  • Fabulous birds can be seen throughout Southern Africa on any safari.  Even on those occasions where other wildlife seems scarce, birdlife will be plentiful.
  • If you are a bird enthusiast, however, you might either book a specialist birding safari with guides who make that a specialty, or else ensure that your camp knows that that is the interest of your group.

  • Otherwise, many people will emphasize looking for leopard or lion or cheetah, and will pass by fabulous birding for a hope of a glimmer of a leopard that they will never see.

BOTSWANA

The ultimate destination for  remote African wilderness made famous by The Gods Must Be Crazy, and Mark and Delia Owens', The Cry of the Kalahari.   Victoria Falls is easily accessible, and most safaris start or end there. 

The Okavango / Moremi / western Chobe is so uncrowded you will see no one outside your own group.

Moremi, at the edge of the Okavango, has the highest density of wildlife in Africa.
Central Kalahari Nxai Pan are accessible to see desert wildlife.

Wilderness Duba Plain's Camp - Okavango
Recommendations:
Because of the low population density, this is an ideal place for classic tented overland camping safaris. 

These are particularly suited to very remote and inaccessible areas of Africa, such as isolated camps in the Okavango Delta, Chobe, and the Central Kalahari in Botswana and the Namib desert. The safari operator provides charter aircraft to visit remote but often luxuriously appointed camps where you will go on game drives, hikes, and where appropriate, mokoro trips. The handful of operators who provide this very sophisticated operation are reputable and reliable and will ensure that you have an experience of a lifetime. Despite the relative cost, this provides excellent value in that time is concentrated on game activities rather than just getting there.

Scheduled Overland camping safaris - The African safari of old, where you travel by 4-wheel drive through remote wilderness, camping along the way. These range from participation safaris at the budget-end, where you participate in camp chores to luxury safaris where you stay in well appointed campsites and enjoy fine cuisine served on bone-china and cut crystal with everything done for you by the safari staff. You can have very enjoyable and rewarding experiences at either end of the spectrum. In Southern Africa, these safaris generally require 10 days to 2 weeks, though in Kenya and Tanzania one week safaris, and shorter, are possible. 

Uncharted Africa - Jack's Camp / San Camp - Kalahari wildlife / natural history - See the photos from our visit or the affordable Planet Baobab
Kwando Safaris - small specialty operator for the luxury tented camps at Kwara and Kwando concessions
Wilderness safaris - operates luxury tented camps in Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe,Malawi and South Africa
Botswana a la Hemingway Safari - A classic overland safari in Botswana
Conservation Corporation Africa - luxury camps in Okavango/Moremi
Penduka Safaris - quality overland safaris at a good price.
 


 

Upper Zambezi and Victoria Falls - ZAMBIA

 Reached by direct flight from Zimbabwe or by crossing the river 
Impalila Island Lodge A wonderful place after your Botswana safari, to relax, experience world reknown fishing, and  enjoy the wonderful experience at Chobe. It is reached by boat ride from Kasane or light aircraft from Livingstone.

Tongabezi: Zambia. The ultimate in exclusivity on islands in the Zambezi River. Tongabezi offers a comfortable alternative to enjoy the wilderness

River Club: Zambia. Old style colonial elegance on the Zambian style of Victoria Falls.

Royal Livingstone - Sun International Hotel within the Park a short walk to the falls and with a direct view of the upstream side of the falls.

Victoria Falls

Zambia Safaris - Kafue / South lubber / Lower Zambezi National Park
 

 "The Real Africa," Zambia remains largely unspoiled. Kafue National Park and North Luangwa National Park are relatively unexplored.

The Lower Zambezi National Park opposite the Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe is a superb venue for canoeing and fishing.

When Mark and Delia Owens left Botswana they moved their operations to North Luangwa National Park, the scene for their more recent book The Eye of the Elephant.

Tena Tena Camp - Luangwa River
Recommendations:
Robin Pope Safaris - The premier operator for walking safaris in South Luangwa as well as fabulous camps
Kafue - large, but little visited park with easy access from Lusaka.

 
 
 
Cape To Cairo:  African Business and Adventure Travel
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